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911 Engine Removal
| | Jack at appropriate jack points. Rubber pads at the corner works well. |
Step 2 - Disconnect Battery Ground Cable | | Disconnect the ground side of the battery in front of the car. |
| Separate the A/C compressor from the console (bracket). With lines still connected, lay the compressor (with plenty of protection) on the fender.
We removed the A/C compressor in these pictures. |
Step 4 - Remove Hot Air Ducts | | Remove hot air ducts from Y pipe on hot air blower. |
Step 5 - Remove Air Filter System | | Remove air box cover and air filter. |
Step 6 - Disconnect Electric Plugs | Remove relay plate cover and disconnect electric connections at:
Replay Plate
Adapter Plug
Relay Plate Socket
Ignition Control Unit |
Step 7 - Disconnect Fuel Lines | Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter.
Disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel rail. |
Step 8 - Disconnect Crankcase Vent Hose | Disconnect hoses connected to oil fill tube.
Don't forget hose from crankcase breather cap. |
Step 9 - Disconnect Brake Booster Hose | | Disconnect brake booster hoses and any other vacumn hoses on left side of engine compartment. |
Step 10 - Remove Tunnel Cover & Disconnect Speedometer | | Pull off wire of electronic speedometer sensor in tunnel and remove rubber plug with wire plug. |
Step 11 - Disconnect Shift Rod Coupler from Gearbox Shift Rod | | Loosen socket head at screw on shift rod coupler. Pull coupler off transmission shift rod. |
Step 12 - Disconnect Ground Strap from Chassis | Disconnect ground strap (attached to transmission) from chassis (body).
The strap is located between the transmission cross member and cabin. |
Step 13 - Separate Heater Hoses from Heat Exchanger | | Separate the heater hose between the heat exchanger and heat control box. |
Step 14 - Remove Anti Roll Bar | | Remove anti roll bar from chassis (bushing clamps) and from drop links. |
Step 15 - Disconnect Starter | | Disconnect battery wire at starter. |
Step 16 - Disconnect Accelerator Linkage | | There may be a safety strap or wire on ball and socket. |
Step 17 - Disconnect Clutch | | Be careful of spring. Loosen pinch nuts and remove cable from hook. |
| Drain Oil from crankcase and oil tank.
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Step 19 - Disconnect Oil Lines | | Disconnect oil lines from oil cooler and oil tank. |
Step 20 - Disconnect Drive Axles | | Loosen drive axle flanges at transmission and wheel shaft. Socket (Allen) head bolts. |
Step 21 - Secure Jack Under Engine | There are a number of different types of jacks that can be used here.
Tranny jack (Not Shown) with a special carrier. You can fabricate the carrier from plans in the factory shop manual or purchase one from a place like Pelican Parts.
Table & Tranny Jack. We used a jack up table (from Northern Tools) with a wooden jig and a tranny jack (also from Northern Tool).
Place the jack or table under the engine/transmission assembly and apply pressure.
You will need to lower the engine first to allow about a 15 degrees tilt with the transmission pointing up. This will allow you to remove the trasmission shift rod from the body tunnel. |
Step 22 - Remove Transmission Carrier Bolts. | | Remove the 2 transmission carrier bolts. |
Step 23 - Remove Engine Carrier Bolts | | Remove the 2 engine carrier bolts. |
Step 24 - Lower Engine or Raise Car | Slowly lower engine allowing the transmission end to tilt up to 15 degrees to allow shift rod to clear tunnel opening.
Watch for extra connection from modifications. |
| Remove starter wires.
Remove starter. |
Step 26 - Remove Clutch Release Arm | Remove C-clip and remove clutch release arm.
If the arm will not move, remove tension off arm by backing off adjustment bolt. |
Step 27 - Separate Engine from Transmission | Remove the remaining 2 nuts and 1 bolt that secures transmission to engine.
Separate the transmission from engine. If necessary, use clutch release arm to help rotate clutch release fork inside bell housing. |
Step 28 - Remove Pressure Plate & Clutch | Remove the 9 socket (allen) head bolts evenly from pressure plate.
Remove pressure plate and clutch disk. |
Step 29 - Mount Engine on Stand | Use a 911 specific engine mount. They can be ordered from specialty tool companies like Sir Tools or Baum Tools. You need the yoke and the clamp.
The yoke and clamp were attached to a modified 1250 lb engine stand (Northern Tool). The engine stand was used because it's wide legs allowed us to use the jack up table to slide the stand (with clamp) on to the engine (with mount).
Note the longer stud on top and shorter stud on bottom. You can purchase special "bolt shafts" that are the right length to secure the mount to the engine, but we just used really big nuts.
Be sure to secure yoke on oil cooler side of engine. |
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